Tuesday, July 15, 2008

the English Riviera, setting out to walk the Dingle in Ireland

Since I've last written, I did some exploring around Torquay, part of an area nicknamed the English Riviera, and headed to Tralee, Ireland, where I am now preparing to walk the Dingle Peninsula starting tomorrow.

This past Saturday, I found myself on my own; I decided to hang back from a trip east my friends took to visit relatives (niece's birthday party and all). I decided to venture over to the fishing village of Brixham instead, reached via ferry from the Torquay Harbour. On my way to catch the ferry, I stopped in a juice bar to fix my low blood sugar and tide me over til a late seafood lunch in the village. Well, they had wheat grass shots as well as juice and since I hadn't been getting my share of daily veggies I thought that'd be the healthy thing to do. I was fine until the ferry ride over. Wheat grass on an empty stomach is not a good idea. I passed back and forth between thinking that I was going to throw up or float off the boat. Never before had I had a reaction to wheat grass like this before. I was really rather terrified that I was going to be vomiting over the side, all on my own, with everyone staring at me! Once I got to Brixham I was desperate to find a place to eat and get rid of my floaty sick feeling that made me feel like I was on another planet. So after realizing that every proper restaurant serving lunch was closed til dinner, I got take-away fish and chips that were probably the best and greasiest I've ever had. Definitely filled my fish and chips quota for the year, like most of the people that seemed to live in this town, identified by a uniform of sweatpants and a t-shirt. Although I can't say I did more than walk up and down the tacky tourist strip and eat my greasy meal, I'm pretty sure I won't return to this town. It was interesting to see, and I later learned that it is the major fishing port delivering fish to all of England, has a place in history, etc. Maybe my wheat grass-induced haze tainted the whole experience a bit.

Monday was another long day of travel. I spent the day in Exeter with my friend and her great-aunts, had a nice lunch, and five hours of travel later, was boarding my plane, another delayed RyanAir flight, to Shannon, Ireland. I had a warm welcome at customs and in a conversation about the weather with the customs officer, I related how sunny and warm it had been when I was visiting two summers ago--he said that was the last time the sun's been out. I won't bore you with the details, as I perhaps have already given too many above, so in a nutshell, I ended up staying in Shannon for the night at a hotel with a Chinese restaurant and pub. From what I saw, Shannon is a sprawling suburb, a bit of a disappointment compared to my romantic memories of quaint Irish villages. I was warned by the Lonely Planet of this, anyhow, but too afraid to end up in Limerick or some other unknown after dark. I ended up chatting with a father and daughter traveling from Tuscon, of all places, and the father works at the same university as my uncle. Small world. As the drunk Irish men hit on his daughter, just out of high school, he kept saying how great all of this was, that he was so glad she was finally getting to talk to locals. It was a nice time in a rather bizarre situation. (And I immediately sent my hot and sour soup back to the Chinese restaurant upon its resemblance to an unknown brown goop.)

Made my way to Tralee today. It's a pretty nice little Irish town, very colorful and cheery. Overall I feel very at ease being back in Ireland. There is something about this country that is very soothing. The scenery, the people, the pace--it's funny how different it feels compared to England while being so close. I am really looking forward to walking the Dingle Peninsula. Parts of the film Far and Away were filmed here, as well as some others. I got my maps today, left my ridiculous roll-aboard at the luggage check in Limerick, and am set to go.

I apologize for the lack of photos, I never end up bringing my camera to the internet cafes! But promise to get some photos on here soon.

Hope all is well with everyone. I enjoy the comments!

2 comments:

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